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Today's word on journalism

Tuesday, December 12, 2006

Final Exam Week Edition 2: Ethnocentrism. . . .

"More powerful than all poetry,
More pervasive than all science,
More profound than all philosophy,
Are the letters of the alphabet,
Twenty-six pillars of strength,
Upon which our culture rests."

--Olof Gustaf Hugo Lagercrantz, Swedish author and critic (1911-2002) (Thanks to alert WORDster Steve Marston)


Ice cream not so splendid with Splenda

By Kathryn Kemp

November 14, 2006 | A few years ago my roommates and I had a very special tradition that I loved (little did I know then that many girls had the same one). It's very simple: Every time you kiss someone new, you buy ice cream for everyone.

It's the perfect tradition. Not only is it a delicious way to celebrate a first kiss, it's a great way to keep the freezer stocked with at least one carton of ice cream. If there's somewhere between four and six girls in an apartment and each kisses two people, give or take, in a school year, they could have a lot of ice cream.

That seems like a pretty good deal -- unless you're checking the nutrition facts. Not only is six girls with two kisses each a lot of ice cream, it can also be a lot of calories and fat. Luckily, a lot of other people eat ice cream as well, and they're concerned about the nutrition facts too. So there are options now: regular, slow-churned, low-fat, fat-free, and recently gaining popularity is the sugar-free variety. But do these new styles stack up to the original? That's what I decided to find out.

I purchased three different kinds of Dreyer's vanilla ice cream: Dreyer's Grand, which is the original; slow churned, which has one-third the calories and half the fat; and finally slow churned with no sugar added, which is even less fat and calories. The sugar-free ice cream uses Splenda as a sugar substitute. All three were the same price.

I chose Dreyer's because they had all three of these choices, while most other brands did not. The vanilla flavor was chosen because it is simple. Other flavors, for example, Tin Roof Sundae, would have been too difficult to judge because there are multiple flavors in one type of ice cream. Vanilla is a recognizable flavor that is easy to compare.

One serving of ice cream is a half cup. The nutrition information in that serving is as follows:
--Dreyer's Grand: 160 calories, 100 calories from fat, 11 grams total fat, 35 mg of cholesterol and 11 grams of sugars.
-- Slow Churned: 100 calories, 30 calories from fat, 3.5 grams total fat, 20 mg of cholesterol and 11 grams of sugars.
--Slow Churned No Sugar added: 90 calories, 25 calories from fat, 3 grams total fat, 10 mg cholesterol and 4 grams of sugars (these are natural sugars only).

It is pretty clear which one is healthiest, but the flavor is equally important to ice cream lovers. So I judged each of these on their taste, and how soft or hard it is. Here is how they compared.

Dreyer's Grand: This has a very rich, sweet flavor. It was very soft and scooped out of the carton just perfectly. Sometimes hard ice cream has to be chewed a little bit, but this melted down perfectly once it reached the mouth.

Slow Churned: The flavor of this one was not as rich and sweet as the regular one. It was not as thick either. It had a fluffier, lighter look and taste. It was even softer and easier to scoop than the Grand. It could have been scooped from the carton with the flimsiest plastic spoon without even a grunt from the scooper.

Slow Churned No Sugar Added:Sucralose, the sugar substitute sold as Splenda, is supposed to be 600 times sweeter than refined sugar, so I was surprised to find that this ice cream was also not as rich or sweet as the Grand ice cream. This one was also thicker and stiffer than the other two. It was still soft enough to scoop easily, but I wouldn't use the flimsiest plastic spoon in here. It seemed a little grainier, like the Splenda hadn't dissolved into the ice cream all the way or something. The worst part of this one, however, was the aftertaste. When the ice cream is gone, it isn't vanilla that lingers on your tongue; it's the flavor of the Splenda. And the taste of Splenda alone is not good. It reminded me of when I was a young kid, and I used to pile sugar on top of the healthy cereals like Kix or Rice Chex. The sugar of course turned to sludge at the bottom of the bowl and, when the cereal was gone, I had to drink the milk that was left. The taste of all that sugar with that little bit of milk, is the aftertaste of the sugar-free ice cream.

And it doesn't go away. I ate crackers, drank water and hot chocolate, chewed gum, and the taste was still there. It didn't go away until I brushed my teeth before bed. It wasn't good. However, my roommate didn't even notice the aftertaste, so maybe you'd only notice it if you know what Splenda tastes like. And the initial flavor itself wasn't bad at all.

My conclusions: None of the ice creams were terrible in my book. They all tasted like vanilla, despite one being sweeter than the others. So really it's a matter of personal preference. Overall, my pick is slow churned ice cream. Not only is it half the fat and one third the calories, it still tastes great, without being too much. If you don't care about the fat calories, I still recommend the slow churned, because the Grand is a little overpowering in its flavor. Unless super-rich, super-sweet is what you like, slow churned is the one that is just right.

The moral of the story: Like all foods that have been adjusted somehow in order to provide a healthier lifestyle, nothing tastes like the original. But unlike these other foods and treats, a person can be satisfied with no matter what kind of ice cream they buy. In fact, unless you're purposely comparing them, like me, you probably won't even notice the difference.

Thanks to the creativity of ice cream makers, we can still eat good ice cream without guilt (or at least not as much). So go ahead and reward yourself and the roommates for that kiss; or for anything else you can think of. After all, delicious ice cream is its own reward.

NW
JP

 

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