By Matt Stephens

Movement, momentum, strength and mental capacity are all essential ingredients in rock-climbing. Logan climbers have been putting their skills to the test in a climbing mecca located less than 15 minutes from downtown Logan.

Logan Canyon plays host to miraculous limestone with outstanding features and routes for all ages and abilities. Few people venture past the trodden path of asphalt paving its way through the scenic canyon, but those who do are welcomed with open arms into Logan's climbing community.

"Climbing instills confidence and is good exercise for people," said Ben Larsen, owner of Bitter Sweet, a climbing gym and retail shop. Larsen said climbing is an individual sport like wrestling, however, there is a team atmosphere because everyone is there to cheer you on and to help you succeed.

Mike Duncan, a local climber, said climbing is something he constantly thinks about. He enjoys overcoming obstacles and correcting for limitations.

"The energy is good," Duncan said referring to the climbing atmosphere. The Logan climbing community and local retailers are always there to help out.

Organizations such as Bitter Sweet do everything they can to keep the climbing in Logan canyon safe, and fun. Larsen said Bitter Sweet sees about 150 youth groups per year. The groups are taught the essentials of safe climbing and technique.

In addition to helping out youth groups, Bitter Sweet helps replace anchors on climbs. Larsen said they replaced all the anchors in the China Wall Cave, a local climbing crag known for its hard ratings and near horizontal roof. In addition to replacing anchors, Bitter Sweet will buy bolts and route setting gear for anyone qualified to make new routes.

Larsen said he loves to see new routes being set in Logan canyon and he wants to make sure they are safe.

"I have never turned anyone down for help," Larsen said. If there is something that needs to be done, Larsen, Bitter Sweet and many members if the local climbing community will help make it possible.

Climbers have been helping to make Logan canyon a safer area to climb, providing bolted routes for all areas and ranges. However, just because of the recent upgrades to anchors and bolts that does not indicate that climbing is entirely safe.

Tim Monsell, a local climber and author of Logan Canyon Climbs, the guide book to Logan Canyon, writes, "Rock climbing is a high risk dangerous activity. Holds break, rocks loosen and anchors are stressed. Any person, especially the inexperienced undertaking climbing should approach it with caution and with proper supervision."

"Seek instruction," Duncan said, echoing similar sentiments.

There are key aspects of climbing that beginning climbers need to learn before taking off to the crag, and advanced climbers often need to be reminded of them.

Terms

Climbing, like every other sport has certain terms that are associated with it. A knowledge of certain climbing terms is key when trying to communicate with other climbers. Basic terminology, or words a climber might hear at a crag are biner, short for karabiner; belay, the process of securing the climber to a rope; crux, the hardest part of the route; tick mark, a small mark indicating a hold; crimp, a finger position used on small holds; tweek, injury to a tendon or muscle.

Many words are often interchanged with one another; your climbing partner, or locals can fill you in on which words to use. A complete list of climbing terminology can be found at climbing terms.

Climbing partners

Climbing partners can either make or break a person when you are climbing. Beginning climbers should go with someone who has experience with all types of climbing. Compatibility with climbing partner is also essential in improving and enjoying a day at the crag. It should be kept in mind that climbing partners often spend many consecutive hours and even days with each other so make sure your partner is upbeat, and motivated.

Dale Goddard and Udo Newman suggest developing success-oriented motivation which cannot take place with negative partners. In addition, you partner will be belaying you while climbing. A level of trust needs to be acquired.

Ratings

Climbing ratings can be arbitrary, and vary from region to region. Most sport climbing routes in the United States use the Yosemite Decimal System. The system ranges from 5.4 to 5.15a and harder routes are being sent every year. Monsells suggest getting to know the area and ratings so you know what you are comfortable with.

Logan Canyon offers a host of climbs in all ranges. Climbs ranging from 5.7- 5.9 are considered beginner. Climbs from 5.10-5.11 are intermediate climbs, and anything above 5.12 is considered advanced.

Todd Skinner, author of Modern Rock Climbing, writes that climbers should know what their limits are. "Gain experience climbing with another climber who has more experience than you. Watch him carefully and learn from his actions," writes Skinner.

Access

Climbing access can be limited from time to time, especially in areas of high use. Climbers need to be aware of possible closures and have a greater understanding for the impact of usage. In the past climbing areas have been closed due to the high volume of people and the proximity of climbs to certain flora.

Ron Vance, recreation staff manager for the Cache Forest District, said there have been closures in the past. The closures were the result of certain flora indigenous to the Cache area, the Maguire primrose, a protected plant. The agreement with the Cache district was that climbing was prohibited within 50 feet of the plant. The resulting agreement closed a few climbs to climbers although the total was below 6 percent of the total climbs.

Certain climbing etiquette, and common sense rules should apply when climbing or bolting. Vance expressed concerns of new climbers not obeying the agreement set forth. He has seen on numerous occasions routes placed within 10 feet of endangered botanical species. In addition, there have been concerns expressed about sanitation at certain highly used climbing areas, concerns over placing bolted routes in wilderness areas, and the colors of webbing and quick-draws used and left on certain routes.

The Forest Service is currently working on implementing a new usage plan for the district that zones the land into different areas. Currently there are no absolute rules concerning the closures of certain climbing areas. Climbers need to be aware of climbing etiquette, and obey the rules and guidelines set forth by the Forest Service and the climbing community. Failure to obey the guidelines could ultimately impact the amount of climbing available.

The Access Fund is an organization working to keep climbing areas open. The Access Fund suggests, "The Fund helps preserve access and protect the environment by providing funds for land acquisition and climber support facilities, financing scientific and publishing educational materials promoting low-impact climbing." They said climbers can help preserve access by being responsible users of climbing areas.

"Climbers need to help make it work," Vance said. "User groups need to be a part of the solution."

Gear

Gear can be expensive. A beginner can look to using some of their partner's gear for starters. Some basic gear that eventually needs to be purchased are ropes, harnesses, and quick-draws. Bitter Sweet offers climbing packages for beginners, intermediate, and expert climbers. They offer inexpensive gear as well as a knowledgeable staff to help with any questions. Bitter Sweet is the only full climbing shop in the area, and the only shop that has full-time climbers on staff; they are also a climbing manufacturer. Package items for climbing and other gear can be viewed at climbing gear.

As long as climbers exercise caution, maintain proper etiquette, and have a good time, climbing in Logan Canyon can be very enjoyable. Utah is host to many different climbing areas including: the bullet-proof granite of Little Cottonwood canyon, Big Cottonwood Canyon, American Fork Canyon, Ogden Canyon, Zion National Park, Ibex, and Joe's Valley.

Guides to most climbing areas can be found, at least in part, online. Climbing is a doorway to adventures not privy to the prey and monotony of a 9-5 job.

NW
SR

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