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Logan Canyon offers many scenic trails for hikers of any skill By
Kyle S. Loosle In a few minutes he changes out of his work dress code and transforms into his play mode-shorts, T-shirt, baseball cap and hiking shoes. Minutes later Cody has driven his maroon '86 Honda Accord up scenic by-way 89 to Guinavah Campground, a trailhead for the Crimson Trail, six miles up Logan Canyon. Parked in the shade of 80-year-old black willow trees, he transfers two peanut butter and jelly sandwiches and two water bottles from a cooler to his backpack. As he ascends to the top of the 6,000 foot limestone China Wall, he tells the story of how the trail got its name. "Brigham Young College, located where Logan High is now, used to go on a senior hike along this same path. Their school colors were crimson and gold and the name stuck. Logan High still retains those colors," he said. Walking atop the wall, looking down on the ant size cars, Edwards turns his face south to gasp for air, as strong winds ripple through his beige jacket on the exposed cliff. He turns back north and points across the canyon to a limestone arch over one of two crevasses, caused by wind and ice erosion. "Over there are the Wind Caves, a great hike in early spring, because the snow melts first there." Many hikes like these in are available in Northern Utah's Cache Valley. Cache National Forest surrounds much of the valley and offers hikes for all occasions. Trails take hikers along historic paths, unique geological features, breathtaking scenery, various degrees of difficulty and terrain, and along national recreation trails. "The best part is you don't have to drive three hours to hike, like I did growing up in Wyoming," said Jon Hernandez, who was just finishing his hike when Edwards arrived. Hernandez, a welfare collector employed by the state of Utah, grew up in Gillette, Wyo., in the northeast corner, where land was flat and dry. The proximity to canyons and trailheads is convenient to many recreationalists. "I have time to go on a short hike after work or a lengthy one Saturday morning and still have time for my family that night," said Edwards, who also grew up in Wyoming. Hikers can also chose from at least nine canyons in Cache Valley, including Blacksmith Fork, Dry, Green, High Creek, Logan, Millville, Providence, Smithfield and Wellsville, more commonly known as Sardine Canyon. Additional canyons await hikers within the major canyons, such as Left-hand and Right-hand Fork. The Bear River Range and Wellsville Mountains, the steepest rising in North America, are two mountain regions dominating this Wasatch Range of the Rockies. Trails also lead into Mount Naomi and Wellsville Wilderness areas, as well as Spring Creek Wildlife Refuge. As Edwards continues walking along the straight-away of the 850 feet thick China Wall, he stops to pull out his video camera from a black Samsonite case he wears around his waist. He starts filming a patch of Indian paintbrush, shaking in the wind like a baby rattle, just off to the right of his Merrill boots. Then he scans out to include Douglas fir's, junipers and other rock faces, which have rock climbers dangling from them like yo-yo's. These images make up the canyon, which used to lie partly under the ancient Lake Bonneville. When Edwards, a production editor at Herff Jones and owner of the small desktop publishing and video production company Eddy Ink, is asked why he chooses to record his hikes he replies "for archival purposes. I want to show my posterity the things I did and this will show a visual history." Cache Valley, also known as Bridgerland, has many trails of its own with historical background. Cache is from a French word meaning "to hide", named after trappers who would dig holes or "cache" in the ground to store their beaver pelts. Jim Bridger was one of these well known mountain man, and the region used him as a nickname. Old Ephraim's Trail (013) takes hikers to the gravestone of an 11-foot grizzly, the last one known in Utah. The Jardine Juniper (014) is another trail with a historic background, rewarding hikers with a view of a 1,500 year-old juniper. Steam Mill (139) leads to a man-made lake built for a logging company, where one can still find an old steam engine along the trail. Mill Hollow (125) is another logging trail, Preston Valley Trail (049) follows an old sheep trail and Temple Fork Sawmill (004) leads to the site where lumber was taken to build the Logan LDS Temple and Tabernacle in 1877. The number in parentheses is the trail head according to the Wasatch-Cache National Forest visitor map, available at the Logan Ranger District. For hikes in Cache Valley, make sure to ask for the Logan and Ogden region. "Cache Trails" and "Bridgerland Hiking Trails", popular hiking guides, also refer to these trailheads. Satisfied with his filming, Edwards puts away his video camera. He removes the right shoulder strap to his backpack and swings it off onto his left arm. Reaching for his water bottle he comments on how nice it is to be off the steep switch-backs. "This two- mile flat straight-away will allow my legs to recover before the steep decent," he says. Connie Cloward might welcome the steep incline of the Crimson Trail. For her, fitness is a major encouragement for hiking. After being on her feet most of the day, overseeing image processors at Herff Jones, she still looks forward to where her feet can take her. Completing a hike allows her to "feel like I've accomplished my workout for the day, without the stale smell of a gym. The anticipation of getting to the destination is thrilling and rewarding." For those who want less of a workout, but still enjoy being outside, a 4.2-mile walk along the Logan River on the Riverside Trail (603) is available. The river and town are named after another famous mountain man to the area, Ephraim Logan. The trail is nicely shaded and grated for stroller use or wheelchairs. It offers ample opportunity for observations of waterfowl and small wildlife. Another easy hike is Limber Pine (004), which offers interpretive information for kids and views of turquoise-colored Bear Lake, known as the "Caribbean of the Rockies." In contrast, a difficult hike is to the top of 9,799 foot Mount Naomi (005-136), the tallest peak in the Bear River Range. Grade is measured at 12 percent and 20 percent in a few areas. On a clear day the Teton Range can be seen to the north and the Uintahs to the southeast. The Wellsville Ridge (037-038) also has a step grade at 18 percent and routes can be combined for a lengthy hike. Wellsville Cone (037) is the highest point at over 9,300 feet, and the ridge offers views of Cache County on one side and Box Elder County on the other. Nearing the switch-backs for the decent, Edwards passes a patch of aspens tucked into the shade as the China Wall takes a sharp turn toward the south. After another sharp turn to the north, Edwards looks back at the v-neck in the trail. Now part of the aspen leaves shine in the sunlight like golden coins. Logan Canyon has been ranked as a top 10 place to see autumn leaves by Glamour magazine. Maple, aspen and fir trees along the Mill Hallow Trail (125) are a prime example. Smithfield Canyon (007) is not shy about its abundance of fall foliage either. Receiving a higher percentage of rainfall helps Maple Bench Trail (038) in Sardine Canyon nourish ferns and maples for a wide color palette. As Edwards reaches the switch-backs, which descend into Spring Hollow, he is reminded of a hike he took up the hollow. "A buddy and I were hiking along and taking pictures when we were interrupted by a moose. Needless to say we gave it the right-of-way, but it did make for a good video." Spring Hollow (124) is a popular spot for engagement pictures, the scenic hollow leads to Logan Peak. Moose can often be seen along the journey and rock slides are common. High Creek (027), near Richmond, and Richard's Hollow (019), in Blacksmith Fork Canyon, are hikes, which offer views of waterfalls. A pleasant drive to Tony Grove rewards one with a view of the lake and surrounding cliffs. Nearby is the White Pine Lake Trailhead (025), a moderate hike through spring wildflowers, green summer fields and golden aspen in the fall. Two 9,700 feet peaks dwarf the alpine lake. Along the switch-backs Edwards mentions he hardly ever hikes alone. "I like the peace and solitude hiking can give, but I make sure to have someone around. I did hike alone once; I hiked White Pine, because I knew it would be busy. I could seek help if needed." For those seeking solace from mountain bikers, Mount Naomi and Wellsville Wilderness Areas can help. "I like the rush of mountain biking, but I may eventually have to try hiking. They don't allow mountain bikes in Wilderness areas," said Jon Jenkins, a student at Utah State University. The Great Western Trail (054,142,127 & 601) is one of over 750 National Recreation Trails in the United States. It runs from Canada to Mexico with four trailheads and over 24 miles of trails throughout Cache Valley. Mount Naomi (005-136) is another national recreation trail and runs through wilderness land. Back on level ground and approaching his Honda, Edwards exhales from exhaustion, but the crooked grin across his shallow cheeks hint at satisfaction. He is reminded of another hiking experience. His usual hiking partner had brought a friend for their hike to Wellsville Cone. The friend, Susan Estes, was a P.E. teacher from Virginia. "She couldn't get over the height of the mountains, or how quickly we could arrive at a canyon. By the end of the hike, she had a sincere appreciation for the West and the Rockies. She marveled at the scenery and the atmosphere. She said, 'It's as if nature has its own soundtrack.'" Edwards kicks at dried mud on the back of his boots, and after a pause continues, "I think about what she said sometimes and wonder if I take my surroundings for granted." For further information about weather and hiking rules contact the Logan Ranger District, at the mouth of Logan canyon, or access Bridgerland.com. The Logan Chamber of Commerce and USU Outdoor Recreation Center can also answer hiking questions. Cache Valley Hikers and the Bridgerland Audubon Society organize weekly hikes throughout the summer and early fall. Schedules are printed in the Friday edition of the Herald Journal.
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