Features 04/25/00

Rib wizard survives 'rapids and tides' of small business with home-style barbecue

By Casey Hobson

SMITHFIELD - Here's a question for all the marketing and economics gurus out there: How do you make money at a restaurant that doesn't have a big name, a fancy building or the luxury of being the only hamburger joint in town?

No research is necessary. One need look no further than Eddie Baker, owner of Eddie's Restaurant at 695 S. Main St. Baker's restaurant fits the description perfectly, and he has the answer to the question.

"You've got to have a unique product," Baker said. "You've got to be able to chance the rapids and dance the tides. I know I've got a unique product."

What's his product? Barbecue ribs. Home-style, slow-cooked ribs -- the kind of ribs the meat just falls off. Ribs so good some people call them the best in town.

 

"You've got to have a unique product," says Eddie Baker, cutting ribs at Eddie's Restaurant in Smithfield. "You've got to be able to chance the rapids and dance the tides. I know I've got a unique product."

/ Photo by Casey Hobson

"I think they're as good as any around," said Jon Pitcher, a regular at Eddie's Restaurant.

"Everything he's got is a little bit better [than the competition] and a little bit cheaper. I think it's really picked up for him here lately, and I think it's because he puts forth a good product. There ain't a thing on [the menu] that I'd really turn down."

So in reality, it's more than just the ribs that keep people like Pitcher coming back to Eddie's. His "unique product" is bigger; the ribs are just the hook on the end of the line. Baker seems a step ahead of the competition in all areas. His service is quick, the food is fresh and the atmosphere is friendly.

"We still do their fast-food stuff, but we use fresh patties," Baker said as he tossed some freshly cut mushrooms on the grill, bathed them in butter and threw on a dash of seasoning. "There's nothing too good for your fellow human being. Why not give it your best shot?"

After a rough beginning, he says that philosophy is starting to pay dividends.

"We're starting to show signs of life," Baker said. "Boy, did I ever get in debt. But I'm relentless. I know I can succeed."

Baker, who turned 46 last week, attacks everything with that same relentless zeal. His resume says, "There is no greater freedom than the freedom that we have in this country to achieve." And Baker has taken advantage of that freedom to achieve everywhere from the oil fields of Texas to the kitchens of Utah.

He graduated from Kilgore College in Kilgore, Texas, in May 1982 with an associate's degree in oil and gas technology -- "drilling holes in Mother Earth," as he calls it. Unfortunately, the oil market fell through the floor around that same time, and Delta Drilling in Tyler, Texas, laid him off. Baker had been working as a roughneck for Delta, handling the equipment, connecting pipe and drilling holes.

"It's fun," he said. "I thought I'd be working for those guys all my life."

After two years of applying for roughneck jobs throughout the oil industry, Baker left Texas. He spent nine years in Alaska, then moved to Utah. Now his restaurant is his passion. He greets his customers with a smile, calls them by name and chats with them while cooking their meals.

"It seems like everyone that comes in here, he knows them," said Luis Pitcher, Jon's brother, who is another regular at Eddie's Restaurant.

"Now whether or not he does, I don't know, but it seems like he does." Friendly and prompt service, fair pricing - it's all part of the product Baker offers. It's not just great ribs but a complete dining experience, one based not only on good food but a pleasurable atmosphere. The type of scene one might find on a Cheers rerun.

Baker's degree isn't in marketing or economics. It's not in accounting or advertising either. He studied the art of drilling holes. His restaurant isn't the fanciest in town, and it doesn't have a big corporate name either. The one thing it does have is a lot of competition.

How do you succeed with a restaurant like Baker's? The answer isn't in any graphs or thick textbooks. It's in the product offered.

And from the sounds of it, Baker offers a good one.




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